lost

Miles and miles of mountains that fall into the sea, and just a narrow shelf at the edge that is sometimes submerged by the tide.

This was a short notice trip, Tony spotted the permits available on recreation.gov, available in about a week. We went for it, committed and reserved them, made it happen. The drive takes hours and just leads deeper into the north coast outback beyond on highways through city and enormous trees, over deep canyons and rural logging mountains. It all fades away, coastal farming valleys filled with summer grasses, low water levels and steel bridges. The coastline here is completely undeveloped.

Making this hike is all about timing and getting from point A to point B before the tide comes in and washes away all traces. There are only a few safe harbors to overnight in, especially in the last southern stretch of it, so you’d better be sure and you better have your tide chart.

There are miles of various sized gravels which can be fairly cruised over, and other than the unevenness and the off-camber angles they’re always pitched at, there isn’t much to complain about. The tide’s still coming in, but it always is doing that.

And there are miles of soft sandy beach to walk on, a beautiful misery when you have somewhere to be by some time. The sand, it drags your feet, especially near the end.

Deer tracks lead down to the ocean’s edge. A couple of bear tracks too. Even the wildlife is playing games in the water.

Then there are miles of head-sized wet boulders to carefully trod. These rocks, they’ll break your ankles if you aren’t careful. What a sound that stretch must make under the surf.

And finally, there are miles of trail up on the coastal plateau, soft dirt track that after the shore-miles make you fly so fast that you would rather slow down a little.

Except at the main camps. During the day, when everyone is transiting, they are empty. But toward day’s end, hikers begin to accumulate and collect, to find a spot to pitch their tent for the night under tree or log, in any hollow space, waiting for the next leg.

jg

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